What's the {Zuppa di Fagioli} Soup?

There are only a (small) handful of things that I actually like about winter. For starters, I actually do like snow but it's a conditional love affair in that I only like it when it's falling, swirling around giving everything, especially trees, a crisp, white glow. This condition is furthered by the fact that I only like it when I'm inside and can admire it's beauty, preferably with mass amounts of candles lit and a glass of red in hand. If I have to be out in the snow or it spoils my plans, all bets are off. Next on my short list of wintertime likes is a big bowl of a hearty, stick-to-your gut kind of soup, something that you just can't enjoy in those warmer months. My list rounds out with other heavier fare, braises, chilies and stews, etc. but to me, a hearty bowl of soup is tops.

Still new to the South End dining scene, Cinquecento (which literally translates to "500" in Italian, which is the restaurants address on Harrison Street) is sleek to say the least. With its bold red awning and painted brick walkway, both proudly bearing the "Cinquecento" name, the attention to detail, from the catchy marketing, by way of vibrantly printed glossy menus and slim matchbooks, to the restaurant's grand staircase and uniquely shaped metal hostess stand, there's a certain chicness and sexiness to it all. The restaurant is dimly lit to "allow couples to escape for an intimate second, yet still remain part of the greater environment", boasts this eatery's website. Once we made our way to our table, a simple tea light candle and tiny terracotta ramekin filled with salt were there to greet us, along with crusty Italian bread and some good, sharp Olive Oil for dipping. 

Since the focus of the evening's visit was to sample the soup and report back for the folks at What's the Soup, I ordered the Zuppa di Fagioli ($7.50), which is a combination of Borlotti Beans, Smoked Ham and Kale. The soup arrived hot and I dug right in, dipping bits of bread into the the soup's rich and smoky broth. There was an abundance of beans and torn pieces of Kale. The soup was incredibly filling and perfectly satisfying for a chilly, winter night. Overall, I totally dug the atmosphere at Cinquecento and would happily return for a cocktail or a bite. 

What's the {Six Different Kinds Of} Soup at City Landing?

Golden Tomato Soup and Roasted Onion Bisque Duo

 "So, can I bring out a couple of soups for you?" Chef Bill Brodsky had asked when I sat down at City Landing last week. I had been sent there by What's the Soup to check out their offerings and when I smugly replied, "Bring it!" in response to Chef Brodsky's question. I had thought their special "duo of soups" ($10) was headed my way and soup spoon in hand, I was ready to dig in. And I sort of thought that's how the story would start and end, with two soups. But it didn't. Before I knew it, six (!) bowls of soup later, I was having difficulty buttoning my jeans but my stomach was happy. So let's get to the soupy details and bowl by bowl replay, shall we?

Butternut Squash Soup and Boston Clam Chowder Duo

It's obvious that there's a lot of attention to detail and it's apparent in the service and most importantly in the food. Each bowl of soup I had was carefully crafted and thoughtfully presented. I started out with a duo of Golden Tomato Soup, artfully adorned with swirls of sour cream and basil oil, and the Roasted Onion Bisque. The bisque was dressed up like a classic French Onion Soup would be but under a layer of gooey cheese and pretty little shreds of chives, to my surprise and delight, was a luxuriously creamy sweet onion puree. The Golden Tomato Soup, the Chef explained, was not regularly on the menu but this soup was so popular during the summer, there are regulars that still ask for it. For that reason, the Chef keeps a hidden reserve of this tangy puree on hand. At this point I thought that this was all the soup I'd be having so I heartily (almost) licked the bowl clean. 

The inside of City Landing 

My plate was removed and placed before me was another duo: Butternut Squash and Boston Clam Chowder. Still hungry, I polished off the Butternut Squash Soup, a hearty puree that hit all of those rich, wintery notes of cinnamon and nutmeg with another artful swirl gracing the top. While I don't care for seafood (I know, I'm a New Englander through and through and it makes no sense) I still found myself enjoying a couple spoonfuls of the creamy soup spiked with buttery diced potatoes, generous portions of clams and a fried clam resting on top. At this point, I thought for sure I was done.

Golden Beet Borscht

But then a Golden Beet Borscht arrived on the scene, garnished with fresh cabbage shreds on a Beet-Horseradish painted plate and I dug in. The flavor of the cabbage was so vibrantly bitter (and that's a compliment) in that earthy way that cabbage is, it was balanced by the natural sugars from the beets. "This one is on our regular menu", Chef explained before placing a Split Pea soup before me. "This one, is one I'm working on for the holiday menu". By now, I was over my limit but I couldn't ignore the soup, especially since Split Pea soup has a reputation for being murky this soup defied that, taking on an attractive, slight green hue and topped with crispy black pepper croutons and diced bacon. Bright flavors of pea and pork were apparent and were it not for all the soup beforehand, I would have devoured it. 

Split Pea Soup

While I had little room to sample anything else off of the menu, I can say that after the tour of soups that I took last week, great things are happening at City Landing. Should you happen to find yourself in the Waterfront area on an empty stomach, stop in for a bowl of soup. At only $6-$9 a bowl or $10 for a sampling of two, generously portioned and skillfully made, you'll be happy you did. 

Gourmet Dumpling House, Chinatown

When I first started really exploring Chinatown, Gourmet Dumpling House came up in nearly every discussion and was always strongly recommended. I hadn't made it in yet, but not for lack of trying. Usually, whenever I happen to walk by this tiny spot on Chinatown's main Beach Street drag, right near the dramatic arch that marks the neighborhood, it always has swarms of people waiting for a table. Yesterday, on our walk back to the Food Expo at the Boston Convention Center, we noticed that there was no line so we popped in for a bite.

Like most Chinatown eateries, there really is no waiting area, just a bustling and crowded dining room. A closer look to your right will reveal photos of the owner with big name celebrities (Michael Douglass, Anne Hathaway and Kate Hudson) as well as local celebrity chefs (Ken Oringer, Ming Tsai). Once we were seated, we were presented with an overwhelming menu of both classic and non-traditional offerings. Wanting to keep it simple, we ordered the fried Pork and Leek Dumplings ($6.50), the Scallion Pancake ($4.25), Mini Juicy Dumpling with Pork (Soup Dumpling) ($6.50) and Wide Noodles Sauteed with Chicken and Vegetables ($6.75).

At first glance, the plates are presented in a traditional way and all came out at once. Upon further review, there was an unidentifiable red "goo" dripping from the side of our scallion pancake dipping sauce and an uncomfortable looking pink substance resting on top of one of our soup dumplings. Pushing those items to the side and looking past that, each of the items seemed to be unnecessarily slicked with grease, something that I usually think of as a bad stereotype for dishes of the Asian genre, but not usually the case.

The Pork and Leek Dumplings were cute little packages with crispy exteriors, but weren't as flavorful as I was hoping. The Scallion Pancakes, while nicely fried and supremely crispy, were thinner and lacked that contrasting doughy center that I love so much. The Soup Dumplings were good, soft and delicate with a soupy center and the noodle dish had generous portions of tender chicken and bean sprouts wrapped around flat noodles.

If you're looking for something to help soak up some of the aftermath of an over-indulging evening, this might be your spot. After all, the prices are reasonable and the food is good, I've just found far better and had a hard time getting past the greasiness.

Mike and Patty's, Bay Village

I usually have a running spreadsheet going of restaurants that I want to try (nerd alert, right?) and while there are a good number of high end places on my list, there's also a significant representation from the lower end places that I feel, as a resident of Boston, I should visit. Mike and Patty's is just such a place, sitting high on my list for quite some time, but for whatever reason, I hadn't made it over there. The stars were aligned this past week and we happened to be in the area and in need of breakfast so we popped into this tiny, Bay Village spot.

I've always thought that I had one of the smallest kitchens in Boston but Mike and Patty's has me beat by a long shot, especially when you consider that there are a couple of people working in this teeny tiny open kitchen spot that only has enough seating for six. We were lucky to snag a seat after placing our order. The place itself, while small in stature, has that homey, Mom and Pop feel to it. With chalkboard menus and beverages and pastries on display, it feels like this place has been there forever, but surprisingly enough, it's only been there since 2008, when two Formaggio alums, Mike and Patty, took over the space.

We each ordered a breakfast sandwich; the Bacon and Egg Classic, a fried egg with cheese served up on an English Muffin ($4). I opted to sub out the Bacon for Peameal, something I fell in love with in Canada, but haven't seen too much of here. While it tasted more like thick slabs of plain old Canadian bacon than Peameal bacon, a more flavorful, cornmeal laced cousin, it was still incredibly satisfying and just plain good. It's a simple dish that's been done a thousand times over, but it was one of the most satisfying breakfast sandwiches that I've had in a long time. While we ate, I got snap happy with my Instagram - I just can't stop!

I was able to snag a bite of Richard's Turkey Croque Madame ($10.25), a hearty open-faced sandwich that was spiked with a Dijon-Creme Fraiche, providing a nice creaminess to the sandwich with a tangy bite. The sandwich was topped by a healthy amount of melted gruyere and a perfectly cooked egg with a sunny yellow center that gracefully worked its way across the plate, further adding to the sandwich's richness.

After my visit to Mike and Patty's, it's easy to see why it's such a local favorite, as well as gets some national attention. While it's not the sort of place where you can take a large crowd or plan to even get a seat, it's definitely worth the visit. With simple menu offerings cooked well and with creative twists, it's quickly earned a place in my heart and I plan to return to frequently.

Restaurant Review - East by Northeast, Cambridge

In a rare turn of events, we had a Saturday night free and couldn't pass up the opportunity for a proper date night. We had just finished up teaching a chicken class at the BCAE and, feeling a craving for something different and fun, we headed to East by Northeast to take advantage of the Five Course Prix Fixe menu. It isn't often that I dissect such a big number of dishes in one post and had only planned to mention a couple but as I started to write this review, I couldn't help myself. So sit back and get comfortable, this one's going to be a long one!

Best seat in the house - at the bar overlooking the action in the kitchen!

If you ever happen find yourself in East by Northeast's tiny dining room in Cambridge, please don't pass up the five course prix fixe menu. For a mere $30 you'll be asked to select one of a couple options of vegetable dishes, one from a bread section and finally, one noodle dish and then the rest lies in the hands of the chef. Once you've placed your order, that's when the fun really begins. Dish after dish, all thoughtfully and beautifully plated, start appearing almost like rapid fire. We decided to each select three different choices so that we could sample 6 different dishes, plus whatever the chef had in store for us.

Turnip Soup with Tofu Amuse

It wasn't long before a soup amuse arrived- a velvety turnip base topped with a soft and smoky tofu cluster and a couple chive rings, it was a perfect teaser of what was to come. Shortly after we had finished, we were presented with an edamame salad. Light and refreshing, the salad had a beautiful tartness to it, courtesy of some diced apples and a thick ginger lemon vinaigrette that evenly coated the surface. Simple and satisfying, this salad was one of my favorite dishes. Rounding out our vegetable selections was a creative plate of kale, smoked mushrooms and puffed rice; a great earthy dish with a welcoming snappy crackle from the puffed rice.

Edamame Salad with Kale, Apple and Lemon Ginger Vinaigrette 

Kale, Smoked Mushrooms and Puffed Rice

Next to appear in front of us were two, terribly cute, bite-sized steamed pork belly buns that had pickled vegetables peeking out. Sticky and sweet with a hint of tartness from some slivered apples, when you got a bite of each component at once it was great. My only complaint was that each component was a little scarce and not evenly disbursed, with the exception of the apples, and I had wished that each bite contained that same great balance of flavors.

Pork Belly, Mantou Bread, Pickles and Sweet Bean Paste

Scallion Pancake with Roasted Garlic Chili Sauce

The real fun in this meal was that the dishes seemed to keep coming, providing pure entertainment for us. It seemed that just as the pork belly buns were whisked away some thick wedges of scallion pancakes appeared accompanied by a roasted garlic chili sauce. Surprisingly light for their size, they were everything you'd want in a scallion pancake; a crispy exterior and lots of scallion flavor. The sauce seemed to be missing a step, sort of flat and tasting neither of chilies or roasted garlic. Our next dish was another instant favorite. Sort of a play off of arancini, black bean and tofu rice balls had a perfectly fried, crispy exterior with a light dusting of crispy salt that gave way to a silky smooth center that was creamy and bearing almost a smoky quality to it; a total win.

Tofu and Black Bean Rice Balls

Next, two noodle bowls were placed in front of us; one, dark and soup-like with bits of root vegetables and beef shanks peeking out and the second, a more rustic looking dish of pork ragout and shredded cabbage. Both were served with long, broad handmade noodles, something that I am surprised to say I didn't love. I'm a freak for noodles but found them too be a bit too toothsome and long, making for a sloppy delivery from bowl to mouth. (Or maybe I'm just not as skilled at chopstick management as I thought?) Furthermore, I found the broth of the beef shank bowl to be a bit bitter and too earthy for me. I don't think that this was done in error on the chef's part and perhaps this is a traditional way to serve a dish like this, but it just wasn't for me.

Pork Ragout, Napa Cabbage, Marinated Sunchokes, Chili Vinegar and a Fried Egg

Braised Beef Shank, Parsnip, Grilled Scallions, Greens, Spicy Beef Broth 

Lastly, our dinner concluded with four cream puffs stuffed with a light and creamy butternut squash mousse and a drizzle of apple brown butter sauce. These were outstanding. The cream puffs were light and buttery, the mousse spicy and sweet and the sauce a caramely tart-sweet sauce that balanced everything out.

Cream Puffs, Butternut Squash Mousse and Apple Brown Butter Sauce

Sesame Caramels 

While not flawless, this was one of the most enjoyable meals I've had in the city in a long time and a steal for the variety and price. The restaurant also offers an 8 course chef's tasting menu for $35/person and while we toyed with whether or not to select that, we liked the idea of choosing some of the different dishes and we were happy we did.

Restaurant Review: Estragon, South End

The Tortilla Espanol

The other night I dined at Estragon in the South End. It was close to 9:30 and there was still about a 10 minute wait for a table. Usually this is a good indicator of what's to come but unfortunately on this evening, this wasn't the case. We were starving and after being seated, we quickly ordered 4 different items from various sections of the menu. It wasn't long before our food started to arrive and the Tortilla Espanol ($5.50) was the first to meet the end of my fork. Swimming in a puddle of aioli and served with a chill, the dense potato slices were the main attraction and the eggs were simply the glue that held them all together. I'll be the first to admit that I'm a snob when it comes to Spanish food and maybe I hold the bar a little too high, but these were a far cry from a real Spanish tortilla where there's more eggs and it has a lightness to it made richer with olive oil.

Croquetas de Jamon

The next to arrive were the Croquetas de Jamon ($10). Advertised as having a Serano ham filling, the golden exteriors revealed an unpleasant pasty interior where I had to hunt for minuscule bits of ham, that once found, offered little flavor anyway - a total fail. Next to arrive at our table was the Flamenquines ($11) which are four rolled, little sticks of fried pork, Serano ham and Manchego cheese that tasted like an under seasoned chicken cordon bleu (only with pork). It was served along with a wedge of lemon and a sauce that tasted of tomato paste, water and a just a hint of hot paprika. While the Flamenquines were fried well, they would have benefited greatly from a a couple of pinches of salt after being fried.

Flamenquines

The biggest disappointment of the evening was the Vegetable Paella ($22). The vegetables were grossly overcooked and almost grey in color. Additionally, they were not prepared properly and somehow the woody stems of the asparagus had made their way to our plate. The Paella rice was under-cooked and over-salted, not to mention missing that coveted crusty bottom that is so desirable. 

Vegetable Paella

To add insult to injury, while our waiter was clearing almost full plates from our table, and when declining to have the food wrapped to go, he never questioned us on how our meal was or asked if we were satisfied. Instead, we were given a smile and the check. After a meal like this, I couldn't help but feel duped and brimming with a lot of questions. How could the kitchen send food out like that? How could the waiter not ask us why we weren't eating? Was this just an "off" night or is this how the food is prepared? And if it was in fact an "off" night, is that acceptable when the customer is paying a pretty heavy price for the experience? While I can appreciate that it is difficult  to execute every dish with perfection, however, we ordered four different dishes and were disappointed by all. An evening similar to this happens every so often and it's frustrating. Where are the standards? 

What's The {Tortilla A La Mexicana} Soup?

Yesterday just may have been the very definition of the perfect soup day. It was bitterly cold out and I had the great luck of being caught in a windy, rainy mess of a storm. The freezing rain was slapping me from all directions and my jeans clung to me, soaked by the rain. We finally arrived at the dark entryway of Temazcal, one of a handful of restaurants that have taken up residence in Boston's Seaport District. The entryway, only lit by an alter of candles and a friendly hostess, helped to warm us up a bit. She guided our shivering selves through an open and spacious dining room to our table, right by a massive wall of windows sprawling out over the high tide and stormy weather. We instantly had a massive craving for a bowl of soothingly hot soup.

The folks at What's the Soup had only sent me in to check out the Sopa De Tortilla A La Mexicana ($10) but that didn't stop me from playing around on the fun iPad menu that each diner is presented with. We briefly met with Chef Todd Hall who explained that the interactive and technologically forward menu was meant to help educate diners on the menu. A good number of menu items are accompanied by not only the recipe for the dish, but the history behind it as well - which made my inner food geek happy.

Not too long after we sat down, we were presented with freshly made tortilla chips and a trio of dips- the house salsa, sweet tomatillo and black bean with queso fresco - that were presented in mini cauldrons that were resting on top of banana leaves. I found the black bean dip, a combination of smooth, spiced beans, addicting. A short time after, our soup arrived, playfully plated and piping hot.

The soup, a giant bowl of fragrantly spicy broth, arrived with four mini cauldrons of toppings - diced tomatoes, slivered fiery Serrano chilies, cubes of queso panela and thick crispy sticks of tortilla. I happily and heartily dumped my cheese into my soup along with a couple of chilies and tortilla strips. The broth itself was spiced and had a beefy quality to it and the cheese softened with the heat of the soup but still maintained its shape while the tortillas provided a very welcoming crunch to the soup.

We lingered over lunch and watched the angry waves outside lap over the docks and we fantasized about coming back on a warmer day and securing a seat on the spacious deck and enjoying a cocktail. We regretted having to brace the elements and leave but the soup bowls were empty and our day had to continue.

Garlic and Lemons, Allston, MA

The other day I had a discussion with someone as to what classifies a restaurant as a "hole in the wall". I think we can all agree this classification means that it has to be small in size. But does it also need to be dumpy looking and small in size? Or can it be trendy and modern while not seating many people? I stood my ground that a "hole in the wall" has to be something that looks sort of sketchy and if you were traveling from out of town you'd walk right past it, dismissing it in the name of uncertainty. However, the locals know the real deal. That shady looking spot turns out food that should not be missed.

Garlic and Lemons falls into the category of "hole in the wall" in my book. With only a brightly lit sign to mark its place on Harvard Ave, this small cafeteria-style restaurant doesn't offer many frills. Seating only about 20 guests, the main focus of this small space is the open kitchen and it's your first hint that something good is happening. Rows of crisp and vibrant salads, dips and rice are on display and it's also hard for your eyes to not be drawn to the marry-go-rounds of spinning meats.

Offering vegetarian and meat options of traditional Middle Eastern dishes, not to be missed is the spicy chicken. A neat pile of delicately slivered meat with spiced up ends makes it hard for you to want to try anything else. But please do. The Tabbouleh is full of freshly minced parsley and the Cucumber Salad is spiked with dots of bright and citrusy Sumac. The baba ganoush is fresh and consistently creamy with fresh eggplant and nutty hints of Tahini and the smooth, cooling garlic sauce balances everything right out. The kebabs are rich with Middle Eastern spices and salty, in a good way. Nothing on my plate on any of my visits was left untouched or under appreciated.

There are few restaurants that I frequent in the city and that's certainly not to be a knock on the food scene here in Boston. There's just so many places to try and it seems a new one is popping up every other week and for that reason, I don't like to go to the same place twice. There's just too much to explore. (Okay, well not that often at least). Garlic and Lemons is the exception to that rule. Maybe it's not fair for me to be partial to this place because I have a well defined soft-spot for that whole Middle Eastern/Mediterranean Cuisine, which I could eat daily and be a happy girl. On the other hand, because of that reason, I've eaten at many places offering up a similar type of fare and I don't know what it is, but Garlic and Lemons is notch above most others in the same category.

Duckfat, Portland, ME

On the way back from the wedding, we just had to stop in at Duckfat in Portland, ME to see what all the fuss is about. Receiving a lot of buzz from all sorts of publications (i.e. Food and Wine, Travel and Leisure, Martha Stewart and Oprah, to name a few) this quirky little spot attracts quite the crowd. Arriving around 1 PM, we waited about 20 minutes for two seats along the wall in the dimly lit and very cozy dining room, which had walls that were coated with quirky magnetic poetry, providing endless amounts of fun while we waited.

We placed our order and went for what they are most famous for - large fries and a vanilla milkshake (an obvious healthy choice, of course). After playing with the magnetic poetry for a bit, a tall cone of golden, salty fries was placed in front of us, accompanied by a cute, little glass jar of truffle ketchup.

Truffle Ketchup

The fries were outstanding and some of the best fries I've ever had. Golden brown and crispy on the outside with a soft potatoey center, I could see what all the hype was about. They were salted perfectly with a blended salt mixture and the best part to me was that each fry had a slightly different texture to it. All were crispy on the outside but some were softer in the inside while others were more dense. It was a welcome variation in textures that kept things interesting. Duckfat fries are also fried in duckfat (hence the name) and to my knowledge, I haven't had a duckfat fry before. While I can't say my palate noticed a huge flavor difference, there was a little indescribable something special there that made these fries seem more luxurious.

Vanilla Bean Milkshake

Our milkshake arrived to us just as we were reaching the bottom of the cone of fries. Served in a traditional milkshake glass, it had thick chunks of ice cream running through it and it was dotted with vanilla beans. Oddly enough, the milkshake was a disappointment. The fries were executed so perfectly and packed with so much flavor, the milkshake seemed to pale in comparison and lacked a strong vanilla flavor that I was hoping for.

While I think that there's a big world of food and restaurants out there to experience, should I find myself in Portland again, I would certainly return for the fries (and skip the milkshake).

Dok Bua, Brookline, MA

There are two things that I'm embarrassed to admit with regards to Dok Bua. The first; I've walked past it probably thousands of times since I've lived in Coolidge Corner and it's taken me this long to venture inside. Which means that hiding, right there under my nose, has been delicious Thai food and this whole time I've been missing out. Secondly, I'm ashamed to admit this, but I liked my meal there so much, I went there twice this week and worse yet, I had the same dish. Something I don't recall doing. Ever.

So what's the big deal about Dok Bua? Putting all the flavors and tastes and all of those other factors that are so important to a restaurant review aside (don't worry, I'll get to that in a minute) the consistency is spot on. On both evenings, the service was equally as fast and pleasant and the meals ordered tasted equally as good. Consistency is hard to achieve night after night at any restaurant and Dok Bua does it. Additionally, their menu offers tremendous value. Selecting one of their dinner specials (pictured above) gets you one of 20 entrees, a bowl of Tom Yum Soup, a neat little ball of sticky rice, two spring rolls and two fried pork dumplings with respective sauces - all for $10.95. I dare you to find a better value in the city (and if you do, please tell me!).

Getting to the important stuff; the flavors of the dishes at Dok Bua are bold and bright. On both of my visits I ordered the Drunken Noodle dinner special which was served up hot and fresh with crisp green peppers and shreds of chicken clinging to thick rice noodle rags that were slick with a deliciously spicy sauce. The Tom Yum soup was steamy with a building heat that was softened by cooling cilantro and lemongrass. The spring rolls were golden brown and crackled with each bite, giving way to fresh shreds of cabbage and carrots.  The fried pork dumplings were crispy and contained a flavorful porky center and were served with a sweet and sticky sauce. The rice wasn't necessary to the plate but it did help cleanse the palate and cool things down a bit.

The atmosphere at Dok Bua is charming in its own way with bright colors, Thai decorations and pictures of their food plastered onto large posters and hung in various places throughout the restaurant. Towards the front of the restaurant, there's a little display of Thai snack foods, none of which appealed to my taste buds (baked cuttlefish anyone?) but I appreciate the novelty. In sum, Dok Bua is a must if yourself in Brookline, with an undeniable craving for Thai food. Fair warning though, it's so good, you might find yourself wanting to go back for a second time. And nobody, especially not me, would blame you if you ordered the same dish.